Photo by Sterling Lanier on Unsplash
Photo by Sterling Lanier on Unsplash

Chasing Waterfalls in Costa Rica

The Eco-Traveler's Guide to Avoiding Tropical Bugs — and Finding the Best Ones

Best season: December–April (dry) · May–November (green, fewer crowds) Ideal stay: 10–14 days Fly into San José (SJO) or Liberia (LIR) Budget: $80–$250 per day Eco-tourism · Waterfall hiking · Wildlife

The Country That Invented Eco-Tourism — and Meant It

Costa Rica occupies just 0.03% of the earth's surface and contains 6% of the world's biodiversity. In a country the size of West Virginia, you can stand in a cloud forest at 3,000 metres in the morning, chase a waterfall through primary rainforest in the afternoon, and watch sea turtles nest on a Pacific beach by night. Approximately 26% of Costa Rica's total land area is protected as national parks and reserves — a commitment to conservation that has no parallel in the Western Hemisphere.

The waterfall circuit is one of the great eco-travel experiences in Central America. From the thundering La Fortuna Waterfall in the shadow of Arenal volcano to the hidden curtain falls of Nauyaca on the Osa Peninsula, from the swimming holes of Río Celeste (a river so intensely blue it looks photoshopped) to the Montezuma Falls you reach by scrambling down a jungle river gorge — Costa Rica's waterfalls are spread across six distinct ecosystems and reward the traveler who is willing to get genuinely wet.

The guide's title is a double meaning: avoiding the tropical insects that can make you ill (dengue, malaria, Zika, Chagas) and finding the extraordinary insects that make Costa Rica one of the world's premier destinations for naturalists — the blue morpho butterfly the size of a dinner plate, the giant walking stick that disappears against a branch, the bullet ant whose sting is rated the most painful of any insect on earth. Both kinds of bugs require your attention. This guide covers both.

Dengue is the Primary Risk Year-round dengue in urban and rural Costa Rica — daytime DEET is the most important single precaution
5% of Global Biodiversity More bird species than all of North America combined — the wildlife watching is legitimately world-class
Leptospirosis Risk Waterfall wading and freshwater swimming carry real leptospirosis risk — closed footwear and wound-free skin essential
Typhoid & Hep A Required Both vaccines strongly recommended — start your pre-travel consultation 4–6 weeks before departure
Good news and bad news: Costa Rica is one of Central America's lower health-risk destinations — malaria risk is low, yellow fever is not endemic, and healthcare in San José and tourist areas is genuinely good. The bad news: dengue is hyperendemic year-round, leptospirosis from waterfall and river wading is a real hazard, and the dense rainforest environment brings you into daily contact with creatures whose defensive chemistry can ruin your trip. The preparation is straightforward — apply it consistently and Costa Rica is one of the safest adventure destinations in the Americas.

The Eco-Traveler's Health Prep — What You Actually Need

VACCINES FOR COSTA RICA  ·  Short list, high importance

🦠 Typhoid

STRONGLY RECOMMENDED

Typhoid is present throughout Costa Rica — transmitted via contaminated food and water. Risk is particularly elevated at jungle lodges with non-municipal water supplies, at local sodas (small family restaurants) and markets, and when eating street food. Both injectable (Vi-polysaccharide) and oral (Ty21a) vaccines are available. Administer at least 2 weeks before departure. Vaccine efficacy is approximately 70–80% — standard food and water precautions remain essential.

2 weeks before travelDuration: 2–3 years injectable

🫀 Hepatitis A

STRONGLY RECOMMENDED

Hepatitis A is endemic throughout Central America — transmitted via contaminated food and water. A single dose of the Havrix or Vaqta vaccine provides over 95% protection within 2 weeks. The second dose (6–12 months later) provides lifelong protection. The Twinrix combined Hepatitis A+B series is a convenient alternative. One of the most important and consistently underestimated vaccines for Costa Rica travelers.

1st dose: 2 weeks before2nd dose: 6–12 months later

🐕 Rabies (Pre-Exposure)

RECOMMENDED FOR ADVENTURE TRAVELERS

Rabies is endemic in Costa Rica — primarily from dogs and bats. Pre-exposure prophylaxis (2-dose series, 7 days apart under the updated 2022 CDC schedule) is recommended for jungle lodges, rural hiking, wildlife rehabilitation volunteers, and any traveler spending time away from urban healthcare. Post-exposure treatment is available in San José and major cities but unreliable in remote areas. Bat exposure during night hikes and open-air lodge sleeping is a specific risk.

2 doses, 7 days apartRemote/adventure travel

✅ Routine Vaccines — Confirm All

REQUIRED REGARDLESS

Before any Costa Rica trip: confirm MMR (2 doses — measles present in Central America), Tdap booster (tetanus is a real risk from jungle cuts), Hepatitis B (if not previously completed), Influenza (annual), and COVID-19 boosters are current. Yellow fever is not endemic in Costa Rica — no vaccine required unless arriving from an endemic country.

MMRTdapHepatitis BInfluenzaCOVID-19
DENGUE — THE MAIN THREAT  ·  Why your morning DEET application is the most important thing you do each day

What Every Costa Rica Eco-Traveler Must Know About Dengue

Dengue fever is hyperendemic across Costa Rica — in urban areas, rural villages, and the forested regions around every waterfall on this guide's itinerary. The Aedes aegypti mosquito that transmits dengue is a daytime biter, most active in the early morning (6–10am) and late afternoon (4–7pm) — precisely the hours when waterfall hikers are most active. It breeds in standing water — containers, leaf axils, water-filled tree hollows — meaning the jungle itself is one large Aedes breeding ground.

There is no prophylactic medication for dengue. There is no vaccine currently available to first-time visitors in the US (the Dengvaxia vaccine is only for those with prior dengue infection). DEET applied every morning is your only protection.

Dengue Warning SignWhat It MeansAction
High fever (39–40°C) + severe headache, 4–7 days after biteClassic dengue presentationGo to clinic — blood test immediately
Severe pain behind the eyes (retro-orbital)Highly specific for dengueStop all NSAIDs (ibuprofen) — use paracetamol only
Muscle and joint pain ("breakbone fever")Classic dengue symptomRest, hydrate, paracetamol — clinic visit
Rash appearing as fever drops (day 3–5)Dengue rash — widespread red patchesDo not scratch — monitor for warning signs of severe dengue
Severe abdominal pain · persistent vomiting · bleeding gums · blood in stoolSevere dengue (dengue haemorrhagic) — EMERGENCYHospital immediately
Never take ibuprofen or aspirin if dengue is suspected — NSAIDs increase bleeding risk in dengue and can convert a manageable case into a life-threatening haemorrhage. Use paracetamol (acetaminophen) only for fever and pain management until dengue has been ruled out by blood test.
TROPICAL HAZARDS — A FIELD GUIDE  ·  What lives in the forest with you

🦟 Dengue, Zika & Chikungunya — Three Mosquitoes, One Solution

All three are transmitted by Aedes aegypti — the same daytime mosquito. DEET 30–40% applied every morning protects against all three simultaneously. Zika is of particular concern for pregnant travelers or those planning pregnancy — see our full Latin America Health Guide for the complete Zika guidance. Chikungunya causes fever and joint pain that can persist for months — there is now an FDA-approved vaccine (IXCHIQ) for adults; discuss with your travel physician.

💧 Leptospirosis — The Waterfall Risk You Don't Expect

Leptospirosis is a bacterial infection transmitted through water or soil contaminated with the urine of infected animals — particularly rodents, cattle, and horses. Wading, swimming, or swallowing water at waterfall swimming holes carries real leptospirosis risk, particularly during and after heavy rain when soil runoff increases contamination. Symptoms appear 2–30 days after exposure: high fever, headache, muscle pain, red eyes. Doxycycline prophylaxis (200mg once weekly) is recommended for adventure travelers spending significant time in freshwater. Always wear closed footwear when wading; cover all open cuts before entering freshwater.

🫀 Chagas Disease — The Kissing Bug

Chagas disease (Trypanosoma cruzi) is transmitted by triatomine "kissing bugs" — nocturnal insects that emerge from the cracks of adobe walls, thatched roofs, and rustic wood structures at night to feed on sleeping hosts. Risk to travelers in standard eco-lodges with sealed construction is low — risk increases in rustic jungle accommodation, wooden huts, and budget lodges in rural areas. Sleep in sealed rooms. No vaccine exists. No prophylaxis. Prevention is entirely structural: don't sleep in cracked adobe.

🐍 Venomous Snakes — The Fer-de-Lance

Costa Rica has several venomous snake species — the fer-de-lance (Bothrops asper) is the most dangerous and the most commonly encountered. Excellent at camouflage, typically found on jungle trails, near water, and in leaf litter. Always wear closed boots (not sandals) on jungle trails. Watch where you step and where you place your hands. If bitten: immobilise the limb at heart level, do not suck the venom or apply a tourniquet, and get to a hospital urgently. INS (Instituto Nacional de Seguros) hospitals in Costa Rica stock antivenom.

🐸 Dart Frogs — Beautiful, Don't Touch

Poison dart frogs (Dendrobates and Oophaga species) are among Costa Rica's most spectacular wildlife — bright red, blue, yellow, and orange jewels on the forest floor. In captivity, they lose their toxicity (the poison comes from their wild diet of specific insects). In the wild, their skin secretions cause serious neurological effects. Never touch. Observe from 30 cm. The strawberry poison dart frog (Blue Jeans frog) is the most commonly spotted in the Caribbean lowlands.

🐜 Bullet Ants — The World's Most Painful Sting

The bullet ant (Paraponera clavata) holds a level 4+ rating on Schmidt's insect sting pain scale — described as "pure, intense, brilliant pain, like walking over flaming charcoal with a 3-inch nail embedded in your heel." The pain lasts 24 hours. They are large (2.5 cm), slow-moving, and easy to avoid if you watch where you place your hands on logs and trees. Never grip a tree trunk or log without looking first — bullet ants are frequently found at exactly hand-height. The sting is not medically dangerous for most people; the experience is simply extraordinary in its unpleasantness.

🦟 Malaria — Lower Risk, Still Real

Malaria risk in Costa Rica is significantly lower than in neighbouring Nicaragua or Panama — the main risk areas are the Limón province on the Caribbean coast and remote border areas. For most standard eco-tourist itineraries (Arenal, Manuel Antonio, Monteverde, Osa Peninsula) malaria risk is low but not absent. Discuss antimalarial prophylaxis with your travel physician — many physicians recommend it for Osa Peninsula jungle lodges where Anopheles populations are higher. See our full Malaria Prevention guide.

🌿 Contact Plants — Don't Touch What You Can't Identify

Costa Rica's jungle contains several plants with significant contact dermatitis potential — most notably the manzanillo de playa (manchineel) tree on Pacific beaches (every part including the sap is toxic; standing under it in rain causes chemical burns), and various Dieffenbachia relatives whose sap causes severe oral and skin irritation. Never grab random vegetation on jungle trails for support — always use your trekking pole. If skin contact occurs with an unknown plant, wash immediately with soap and water.

MEDICATIONS TO PACK  ·  The eco-traveler's jungle pharmacy

Prescription Items

  • Azithromycin — standby antibiotic for traveler's diarrhea (not ciprofloxacin — resistance is high in Central America)
  • Antimalarial prophylaxis — atovaquone-proguanil or doxycycline for Osa Peninsula and Limón coastal zones (Rx, discuss with physician)
  • Doxycycline 200mg weekly — alternatively used for leptospirosis prophylaxis if extensive freshwater exposure planned (Rx)
  • Ondansetron (Zofran) — anti-nausea for severe TD (Rx)
  • EpiPen — if any known allergy history; bee, wasp, and fire ant stings are common in tropical environments (Rx)

OTC & First Aid

  • DEET 30–40% repellent — apply every morning before leaving your lodge (OTC)
  • Permethrin spray — treat hiking clothing before departure; effective through 6 washes (OTC)
  • Paracetamol / Acetaminophen — use for fever, NOT ibuprofen if dengue is possible (OTC)
  • ORS sachets × 15 — critical for TD rehydration in heat and humidity (OTC)
  • Loperamide (Imodium) — anti-diarrheal (OTC)
  • SPF 50+ sunscreen — equatorial UV is intense even under cloud cover (OTC)
  • Antifungal cream — humidity and constant moisture cause fungal infections between toes and in skin folds (OTC)
  • Hydrocortisone cream 1% — insect bite reactions; contact plant dermatitis (OTC)
  • Tweezers — spine and splinter removal; tick checks (OTC)
  • Wound closure strips + antiseptic wipes — jungle cuts need immediate cleaning (OTC)
  • Water purification tablets (Aquatabs) — for remote lodges or river trekking (OTC)
The single most important daily action: Apply DEET 30–40% to all exposed skin immediately after showering every morning — before your first cup of coffee, before stepping outside, before anything else. Reapply every 6 hours. In Costa Rica's rainforest environment, this single habit does more for your health than all the vaccines and medicines combined.

The Waterfalls — Costa Rica's Greatest Hits

Having covered every health consideration with the rigour that a tropical rainforest demands, here is the reason every bit of it is worth doing: the waterfalls themselves.

#1

La Fortuna Waterfall — The Icon

Arenal Volcano70 metres500 steps downSwimming hole

Located 5 km from the town of La Fortuna at the base of Arenal Volcano — one of the world's most perfectly conical active volcanoes, smouldering quietly above the jungle canopy. The waterfall plunges 70 metres in a single drop into a jade-green pool surrounded by primary rainforest so dense it creates its own microclimate of permanent mist and 100% humidity.

The 500-step descent is steep, paved, and should not be taken lightly — the return climb takes 20–30 minutes and is intense in the heat. Arrive early (7–8am) before the tour groups arrive. The swimming pool at the base is cold, powerful, and magnificent. Hire a local guide to reach the secondary pools accessible only by trail. Entry fee: approximately $18.

Health note: The pool at La Fortuna is a high-traffic swimming hole with elevated leptospirosis risk, particularly during rainy season. Cover any open cuts before entering, avoid submerging your face, and do not swallow the water. Shower with soap immediately after swimming.
#2

Río Celeste — The Blue River Waterfall

Tenorio VolcanoVolcanic ChemistryTurquoise BlueNational Park

Río Celeste ("Celestial River") runs through Tenorio Volcano National Park and is coloured an impossible, vivid turquoise-blue that looks digitally altered in photographs but is entirely natural — the result of a chemical reaction between volcanic minerals (aluminosilicates) and the water that occurs at the precise point where two tributaries converge. The waterfall that drops into the blue pool is the most photographed image in Costa Rica.

Swimming is not permitted in Río Celeste — the water chemistry would damage your skin (high silica content, volcanic acidity). The experience is entirely visual: 6 km of trail through primary cloud forest along the electric-blue river, culminating at the falls and passing a volcanic "boiling" pool (teñidero) where the colour change occurs. Howler monkeys, toucans, and the occasional tapir track in the mud at the river's edge.

The trail to Río Celeste is a 6 km round-trip with significant mud in rainy season. Waterproof trail shoes are essential — sandals and flip-flops are dangerous on the slippery volcanic clay. The park limits daily visitors — book your entrance ticket at sinac.go.cr in advance during December–April peak season.
#3

Nauyaca Waterfalls — The Two-Day Reward

Manuel AntonioDominicalHorse or HikeDouble Falls

The Nauyaca Waterfalls — two tiers, 45 metres and 25 metres — require a 14 km round-trip jungle hike or a 2-hour horseback ride to reach from the Pacific coast near Dominical. The effort is disproportionate to how many visitors attempt it: the falls empty into enormous clear pools in a canyon of vertical jungle, and on weekdays outside high season you may have the entire canyon to yourself.

Book through a reputable guide operator (Don Lulo's stables, Nauyaca Tour) — the trail involves two river crossings and significant route-finding. Guides include a packed lunch and handle the logistics. The swimming here is extraordinary: the upper falls pool is deep enough to jump from a 5-metre rock ledge. Bring dry bags for electronics — the canyon generates significant spray.

#4

Montezuma Falls — The Gorge Scramble

Nicoya Peninsula3 TiersCliff JumpingRiver Scramble

A three-tier waterfall system accessible only by scrambling up a river gorge from the village of Montezuma on the Nicoya Peninsula — no formal trail, no entrance fee, no infrastructure. You follow the river upstream, climb over boulders, wade through pools, and emerge at the base of three successive falls where locals jump from the cliff faces into the pools below.

The scramble is demanding and requires comfort with river wading to knee-depth. Go with a local guide for the first visit — the correct route is not obvious. Water shoes are essential; the volcanic rocks are extremely slippery. The cliff jumping at the second pool (approximately 8 metres) is technically optional but completely irresistible. Check depth before jumping — ask locals who jump regularly to confirm the pool is clear.

Leptospirosis risk here is elevated — the river has significant animal activity upstream. Cover any open cuts with waterproof dressings before wading. Shower immediately after. Doxycycline prophylaxis is worth discussing with your physician if you plan to do multiple river scrambles.
#5

Catarata del Toro — The Crater Waterfall

Northern Highlands90 metresVolcanic Crater PoolMisty Cloud Forest

Catarata del Toro drops 90 metres into a volcanic crater — the only waterfall in Costa Rica that falls into a perfectly circular crater pool rather than a standard river canyon. The descent into the crater on a metal staircase is dizzying; the mist from the falls is so dense at the base that visibility drops to 5 metres and your clothing is soaked within minutes. The cloud forest surrounding the crater is dense, ancient, and very dark — bring a good headtorch.

Located in the Bajos del Toro valley north of San José — an easy day trip from the capital through pineapple plantations and cloud forest that exemplifies Costa Rica's extraordinary altitudinal biodiversity gradient. Entry approximately $15; guided tours available.

#6

La Paz Waterfall Gardens — Five Falls, One Trail

Central Highlands5 WaterfallsWildlife CenterEasiest Access

The most accessible and family-friendly waterfall experience in Costa Rica — five waterfalls (Templo, Magia Blanca, Encantada, Escondida, La Paz) connected by a well-maintained trail through cloud forest, with a world-class butterfly garden, hummingbird feeders (where 27 species feed simultaneously), and wildlife rescue center housing jaguars, pumas, tapirs, and sloths. Not the most adventurous option on this list but consistently the most rewarding for wildlife observation.

Located 1.5 hours north of San José in the Central Valley highlands at 1,500 metres — cooler, less humid, and lower dengue risk than the lowland waterfall sites. Entry approximately $50 (includes all wildlife facilities). Book at waterfallgardens.com.


The Good Bugs — Wildlife You Actually Want to Find

🦋 Blue Morpho Butterfly

The iridescent electric-blue morpho (Morpho peleides) has a wingspan up to 20 cm — the colour is structural (microscopic scales refracting light, not pigment) and visible from 100 metres. Found in lowland rainforest, most easily seen on jungle trails in morning when they bask with wings open. The La Paz Waterfall butterfly garden has guaranteed encounters; in the wild, simply watch the forest floor at Arenal or Osa.

🐸 Red-Eyed Tree Frog

The red-eyed tree frog (Agalychnis callidryas) is Costa Rica's most iconic wildlife image — vivid green body, red eyes, orange feet, blue flanks — and entirely harmless. Nocturnal; found on vegetation near ponds, streams, and waterfalls in lowland rainforest. Night hikes at Tortuguero, La Selva, and Osa Peninsula consistently produce sightings. A photograph of a red-eyed tree frog in the wild on your phone is the Costa Rica wildlife trophy.

🦜 Resplendent Quetzal

The resplendent quetzal (Pharomachrus mocinno) — the most spectacular bird in the Americas, worshipped by the Maya and Aztec as a deity, the male with a 90 cm iridescent green tail — inhabits the cloud forests of Monteverde, Chirripó, and the Cerro de la Muerte at 2,500–3,000 m altitude. January–April breeding season is best. No DEET required at these altitudes — the cold and altitude put you above the mosquito zone entirely.

🦥 Three-Toed Sloth

The three-toed sloth (Bradypus variegatus) moves so slowly that algae grows in its fur, turning it green and providing camouflage. They spend 15–20 hours per day in a single cecropia tree. Spotting one in the wild — usually a grey-green smudge 20 metres up a tall tree — is a skill that a good naturalist guide makes look effortless. The canopy walkway at Manuel Antonio and the sloth sanctuary near Puerto Limón on the Caribbean coast offer reliable sightings.

🐊 American Crocodile

The Tárcoles River bridge on the Pacific highway is the easiest place in the world to see large American crocodiles — 50–80 individuals typically haul out below the bridge, some exceeding 4 metres. This requires only parking your car and walking to the railing. Do not enter the water. Do not approach the riverbank. Do not let children lean over the railing. The crocodiles are entirely wild and entirely indifferent to your welfare.

🦎 Jesus Christ Lizard

The common basilisk (Basiliscus basiliscus) can run across the surface of water on its hind legs for up to 10 metres before sinking — hence its nickname. Found near virtually every waterfall on this list, basking on streamside rocks or exploding from the vegetation at approaching footsteps in a spray of water and scrambling legs. One of the most entertaining and reliably spotted wildlife encounters in Costa Rica. No health risk, completely harmless.


Costa Rica Practical Information

Topic What You Need to Know
Visa US citizens: no visa required for stays up to 90 days. Valid passport required. Entry immigration officers may ask for onward travel documentation (return flight booking). Costa Rica has no formal entry health requirements for US citizens.
Getting Around Rent a 4WD SUV — essential for the unpaved roads to most waterfall sites. Costa Rica's road conditions vary from excellent to nonexistent within the same journey. Google Maps often underestimates travel times significantly on rural roads. Uber operates in San José; taxis and shared shuttles connect major tourist towns.
Roads & Driving Drive on the right (same as US). Roads to Osa Peninsula and Caribbean coast are often unpaved, flooded in rainy season, and poorly mapped. Download the Waze app before departure — it handles Costa Rican road conditions better than Google Maps. Do not drive at night in rural areas.
Water Safety Tap water in San José and the Central Valley is potable. Rural and coastal areas: use bottled water for drinking and teeth brushing. Eco-lodges typically filter their water — confirm with your accommodation. Never drink directly from rivers or waterfalls regardless of how clean they appear.
Food Safety Standard Central America food precautions apply. High-end eco-lodges have excellent food safety. Local sodas (family restaurants) are excellent value and generally safe for hot, freshly cooked casados (rice, beans, protein, salad). Avoid raw salads and unpeeled fruit at roadside stalls.
Currency Costa Rican Colón (CRC). USD is widely accepted at most tourist businesses. ATMs (Banco Nacional, BAC) are reliable in towns. Carry colones for markets, local sodas, national park entrance fees, and colectivo minibus fares.
Healthcare Costa Rica has excellent healthcare by Central American standards — CIMA Hospital and Clínica Bíblica in San José are recommended for travelers and have English-speaking staff. Remote areas have Ebais (basic rural clinics) with limited capabilities. Travel insurance with medical evacuation coverage is strongly recommended for adventure and jungle itineraries.
Pura Vida Culture "Pura vida" (pure life) is the national motto and greeting — used to say hello, goodbye, thank you, you're welcome, no problem, and anything else requiring a positive disposition. Use it constantly and liberally. Costa Ricans (Ticos) are exceptionally warm and will appreciate any visitor who makes an attempt at their cultural vocabulary.
Post-Return Any fever within 2 weeks of return requires urgent evaluation for dengue. Go to an emergency room and mention travel to Costa Rica. Also watch for: rash (dengue, chikungunya), prolonged diarrhea (parasitic infection), flu-like symptoms (leptospirosis can present up to 30 days after exposure). Don't wait for symptoms to worsen.

A 10-Day Waterfall Circuit

Days Region Key Experiences Health Notes
1–2 San José + Bajos del Toro Arrive SJO, acclimatise, Catarata del Toro day trip Lower dengue risk at altitude · Still apply DEET
3–4 La Fortuna / Arenal La Fortuna Waterfall, Arenal Volcano, hot springs at Tabacón High dengue zone · Leptospirosis risk at swimming hole · Daily DEET
5 Tenorio / Río Celeste Río Celeste trail, howler monkeys, volcanic teñidero No swimming in blue river · Muddy trail requires boots
6 Monteverde Cloud Forest Canopy walkways, quetzal spotting, night hike for tree frogs Altitude (1,440 m) — lower mosquito risk · No DEET needed at night if cold
7–8 Manuel Antonio / Nauyaca Nauyaca Waterfalls horse/hike, Pacific coast swimming, sloths High leptospirosis risk at river crossings · Cover cuts before wading
9 Nicoya Peninsula / Montezuma Montezuma Falls gorge scramble, Nicoya beach River wading — leptospirosis precautions · Water shoes essential
10 Return to San José La Paz Waterfall Gardens, butterfly house, depart SJO Cooler, lower risk · Final DEET application before departure

A Final Word — On Being a Guest in the Forest

The insects and creatures that make Costa Rica's rainforest medically interesting are the same ones that make it biologically extraordinary. The Aedes aegypti mosquito that carries dengue is part of the same ecosystem that produces the blue morpho butterfly and the poison dart frog. The leptospira bacteria in the river at Montezuma is washed there by the same animal community whose tracks you can read in the mud at the water's edge.

The eco-traveler's relationship with tropical bugs is therefore not one of conquest but of negotiation. You apply the DEET. You wear the boots. You cover the cuts. And then you walk into the forest with the kind of open attention that the forest rewards — the moment when you stop looking for the waterfall on your map and see, instead, the jewel-bright dart frog on the rock one metre from your foot, motionless and luminous, as though it has been waiting your whole life for you to look down at exactly this moment.

Pura vida.